Another BEST DAY EVER!!

Another best day EVER!!

Gunaydin

Every morning I wake up to the sun in my eyes; it comes through the window and demands that I get up!  This morning, I was the first to get up!  I went over to the window and the sun was just coming up, still sleepy, more quiet than demanding.  It was beautiful.

My First Fig!!

Peynir Eritme - Fondue

Ekmek Kadayifi

Anne has been taking us on a tour of Turkey while we sit around the kitchen table.  This morning we visited Corum and the black sea region.  (Anne is from (Ch)orum, Baba is from Black sea region).  She made a salad that makes her cry for her son every time she eats it.  (It is Suha’s favorite)  She also made the most simple and BEST BEST BEST Fondue EVER!!! WHAT??? Yep, from the milk of a relative in the village his father comes from, they made cheese that they freeze and then thawed out and mixed with homemade butter to make fondue for breakfast which is an every morning event there.  For me, it was a delicacy, for them, it is normal.  It was also the best fondue I’ve ever tasted.  WOWZA!!  We had a laugh about how I had taken Suha up to the A frames in Hatcher for a special fondue treat with a panoramic view.  He never let on that it wasn’t special at all but at Anne’s table he shrugged his shoulders and said the fondue had been “eh, so so. Not like this”  It’s true.

Sera - Greenhouse

Got Ayran?

I finally got to hold him!!

Waiting for the show to begin!

Basically, we had breakfast, Anne and Suha went back to bed.  Halil and I watched the news, talked about historical figures and I wrote my blog.  Much much later, Suha and I walked down to the store to get Anne some things for dinner as well as my very first fresh fig EVER!!  We visited a green house that had huge vases and a couple of local stray cats, one that took a liking to me.  The owner said that she feeds them, “if you do not show mercy here where you are on earth then you will not be shown mercy in heaven.”  She and her son are moving to England to help her brother run a restaurant next summer.  Suha had a great chat while I inspected the different species in her plant kingdom. 

Holding Uncle Suha's hand, I'm jealous...

Later we had a dinner of ravioli with yogurt sauce (corum) and a sort of cake that is soaked in a simply syrup with whip cream that is on the verge of being butter and walnuts on top…it was…indescribably good and also another one of Suha’s favorites. I was so full I took advantage of their “long laying” ritual and laid down for a nap. Suha woke me up saying Barish and Deniz were here to take us to a water light show…it was 10pm and I could have slept till morning.  I was so groggy they almost canceled but I insisted I would wake up soon.  While we were driving, Ege started puking and I started dry heaving right along with him.  If I had known he was sick I wouldn’t have insisted for sure!! He was like a limp noodle, sweaty and tired.  He is such a shy little thing and add to it not feeling too well, he REALLY didn’t want Suha or I to touch him or look at him. 

poor sweet sick Ege Bey

The water fountain light show was of EPIC PORPORTIONS!!  There was music and lights and of course dancing water.  They started with a pop song then a classical piece I recognized but can’t name, then a folk song every one clapped to, and last but definitely not least, a song about Atatuk that EVERYONE sang LOUD AND CLEAR in big boisterous vibrato! They back lit pictures of him on a fan of water… It was thrilling and I got hair raising goose bumps.  This weekend is a holiday, August 30^th Zafer Bayrami, which means victory celebration.  There are flags being hung everywhere and it is very patriotic. 

Sick boy finally asleep

Excited over a very large cup of iced coffee!!

Everyone waiting for the water show to begin

best toy EVER

Afterwards, we sat down for an iced coffee, Kara would have loved this!!  A tall glass of iced coffee with whipped cream and coffee ice-cream on top! Ege fell asleep so when we got up, I asked if I could carry him (HA!! Devious aunty trick for kids who are mommy and daddy centric!!)  I carried him and sweated buckets and couldn’t stop smiling for half an hour!  We stopped again for kokocrek and he woke up.  He took everyone on trips through the umbrella isle while we ate, except me of course.  He was now awake.  We walked down the street with the rest of the families.  He saw an airplane toy you push and the propellers go around, best $5 we ever spent!! He was a happy kid and we walked all the way down to the sea to see the city at night.  On the way back we found a play area in a park.  I ran to the structure with Ege and went down the big slide after him, we ran back around giggling and he went down the small one while I waited at the top of the big one….Here was my chance to make a connection, sans language barriers and coy shyness, we were playing and this was the most important.  He ran back around and came up, no hesitation, he plopped in my lap and we went down together.  Woohoo! He yelled that was the best slide ever!  We went again and again and again.  I was soaking wet from sweat.  We went on the swings and saw horse and back to the slide.  I have a new best friend!!!  We only got him to move on by promising we could go to the park with Jenny tomorrow.  LOL!!  It was an amazing night!!

Baris joins us on the slide

Feeling better at the park

Jenny has a new friend!

Aquarium and Museum

Here lies the most beloved loyal dog..

sketching...

Today we had a big breakfast again because it is the most important meal of the day.  Every morning, it’s cheeses, jams, bread, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, sausage of some kind or some other yummy treat , AND Cay (tea) of course!  Every morning, Suha and I walk to the corner store for a sparkling cider drink.  I have been wearing my fuel band and don’t know how to change to goal, but days we go out, I blow my goal within the first half of the day.  Today, Anne decided to walk to the corner store (unheard of!!!) and was proud to show me her STEPS number.  It was so cute, she is adorable in every way.  We also then take a family nap…aka, too hot to stay upright.  AnnAnne called today!  I got to speak to her, my Turkish is limited but I said “Merhaba, nesselsun! …..(unlumudum)….sen seviurum Annanne!”  (not sure about all the spelling, but “Hi, how are you….(I don’t understand her response)….I love you, grandma!”  She was so cute and SO very happy to hear me AND she understood me!!  Even more important, for I had to yell due to her hearing.  She cried and said she wanted to see Suha before she dies.  That was the plan before we got here but Anne said we didn’t have to so Suha said we weren’t going.  Needless to say, no we are!!  I am very glad about this as I was upset when the plan changed in the first place!)

Suha took me to the aquarium and the museum today.  We wore ourselves out!!  First we took a mini bus (otobus) to the aquarium.  It was a first for both Suha and I.  It was an adventure as the doors were broken and one driver was hanging out it trying to fix it while the other was driving…Then they switched.  The driver left and the other changed the bus number in the window…I thought, does this mean we are still going to the museum??  Suha got nervous and asked, we were still on the right bus. 

We arrived and the building itself is an architectural masterpiece!!  It also contained a water park, a natural science cinema and a snow world (yes, an entire floor dedicated to making its own snow to play in!!) and an Aquarium.  We decided we were only interested in the Aquarium since it was very touristic and very expensive.  60 lira EACH, which is $30/person, but he got us in by saying I was his wife for a small fee of 35 lira for both of us, Turkish prices.  Eyes down, keeping quite and handing him money goes a long way, I guess I look Turkish!!  As soon as we were in, I became typical tourist, camera came out and I couldn’t stop pointing and exclaiming with the rest of them.  It actually wasn’t that busy, thankfully, we had perfect views of everything.  It was the best aquarium EVER, each tank had a theme for the fish and area of the earth it was highlighting.  The music was very awe inspiring and the whole experience was rather dramatic.  There were giant eels, sharks, sting rays, tuna, sturgeon, and all kinds of colorful reef fish.  The tunnel was the coolest thing I have ever experienced.  You seriously feel like you are underwater, though the shape of the tunnel made me sea sick a few times do to the movement of the fish and the distortion from the glass.  I sat and sketched for 45 minutes , we finished the tunnel and decided to go back upstairs to the bathrooms before we left.  HA!  We literally waded through people to get back and I couldn’t believe how many people could actually fit in the halls!!  How could they see ANYTHING!!  It took us a while to get out.  Then we hit the money maker, the REAL tourist trap!  They had 4 guys photo shopping pictures of us and selling them for a pretty penny.  Of course we bought some, grin!

Eels!!

NEMO!!

When we walked outside there was a parking lot FULL of tour buses!  We were happy to grab some cay and ice-cream and get off our feet for a while.  Next we crossed the highway and walked the “boardwalk” back up the beach to downtown.  It was a great walk!!  It was also 40C outside, so our energy was sapped by the time we reached the museum.  We decided to re-enter the AC and keep going just cause it was cooler inside than out.  I couldn’t keep up with the audio guide as not everything was numbered, so I randomly pressed numbers and got myself familiarized with the different “ages” of tools and artifacts, different ways of life and death and gawked at the small details on even the oldest pieces.  There were amazing sculptures that I just cannot get enough of EVER.  I could visit that place again and again and stare for hours.  I wish we had had time to sit and sketch!  We saw some tash mezar (stone grave box?) that were beautifully carved, sometimes with different Roman gods, sometimes with a geneology, sometimes with epitaphs like the one that was made for a lady’s beloved dog that had a poem on the side.  “here lies, fido, the most beloved dog…”  Some people had too much money, even back then!

Notice the guys in back photo shopping away!!

We saw some of the oldest coins made, treasures captured and later returned, a painting of Sante Clause, beautifully and intricately cut paper, Aribic words painted by writing tiny words inside and more very artistic and wonderfully executed pieces.  Their clothes, “high heels!!”, purses , wooden doors, intricate ceilings, gold rings, jewelry, blown glass bottles and oil lamps…the wonders were endless!!  We bairly got out before it closed.  Again it was practically empty as the buses were leaving as we arrived.  We just hit everything just right today!  Suha said, did I save the day?  He means was the day a success, and yes, EVET!! It was a great success!! We were so tiered we caught the trolley to our favorite tea garden and gave our feet a rest before the trek home.  I noticed a bone in the floor near one of the tables and exclaimed, “IS THAT A BONE??” and in true Suha fashion, he responded, “yes that’s what we do with tourists who can’t pay.”  He cracks me up.

Mado - very popular ice cream

We stopped at our favorite spice store as I told the shop keeper we would be back to by some of the tea he made up for me.  The one that was so strong it would clear the worst cold with one whiff.  We spent 80 lira!!  I had no idea it was going to be THAT expensive!!!  Next time we send anne, she always argues them down.  They definitely know I’m American and even my 20% discount for coming back obviously didn’t go very far.  I will love the tea though.  Its potent!!

10km of pebbled beaches

We came home to Ege yelling off the balcony, “uncle Suha!”  We ate a lovely dinner of leg of lamb and a fresh tasting bulger salad that you stuff in lettuce leaves with homemade pickles…Gah!!  I love this food!!  Baba taught me how to play Tayla a board game we call Backgamon.  Never play a counting game with a university math professor!!  Basically he played himself 4 games in a row and we were tied.  My feet, hands and feet hurt so bad I was sent to bed early and don’t remember falling asleep.  I woke up early to a beautiful sunrise and everyone still asleep.

Santa Clause

Our favorite cay place

"This is what happens to tourists that can't pay."  ~Suha

Today, anne and baba took us back to the sea.  This time we went right here in Antalya.  The beach was made of pebbles and got deeper very close to shore.  The other beach is more Ege friendly but this one is closer and nicer for swimming and not getting sandy.

I love this spot!!

We woke up very early and drove straight there.  We laid out a Turkish rug next to a bunch of Umbrellas and jumped in.  IT WAS COLD (I mean comparatively).  I think it is the nature of the beach itself, the cold water comes up near the shore and the water warmed by the sun is a little farther out.  I swam out a ways and just floated for a while on my back until I felt maybe my face needed a break from the sun.  Then I swam back in.  This always makes Suha nervous, he says he can’t swim and that it is dangerous but I've seen him float like the best of us and swim short stints that proves differently. 

mountains, umbrellas, showers and changing room

Being in the water is so wonderful, I mean, I’m drenched most of the day anyway, always sticky, mostly pouring sweat at the smallest task, like putting on my shoes.  I drink tons of water but rarely have to go to the bathroom.  Technically water is everywhere!  Humidity is around 85% and the temp for the next three days will be above 40 degrees C, the hottest of the year.  But when you step into the sea, it’s the perfect temperature, takes all your weight off and feels like the best hug EVER!! I didn't think that the water could get much clearer from Kemer but it was!! Suha and I sifted through all the beautiful stones, picking out the prettiest ones to take home.  The pebbles made getting out precarious and I was sad to go but the sun was getting hot and it was time to go hide from it. 

baba wanted to take a picture

baba floating in the sea

We took the scenic route home again, they are still learning Antalya and it changes often.  Traffic as I said before is scary.  People park helter skelter, on sidewalks, in the middle of the road.  There are carts and horses, mopeds, bikes, pedestrians, cats dogs, food carts all within inches of each other.  Streets that seem impassable they dive down praying they make it.  Sometimes getting stuck and having to back out of it!!  I hold my breath and try not to gasp, someday I will get used to it and get my camera out and try to capture it, for now, I’m white knuckled.  When they don’t know where to go, they stop in the middle of the street, Suha would jump out and ask a passerby which way to go, of course everyone stops to help and we usually get two to three different stories about which way to go…typically in opposite directions.  I sat in the back blissfully ignorant to where we were even trying to go.  I kept seeing places we had seen on foot and starting putting things together.  Eventually we came out at home and I asked Suha, I wish you had told me we were going home, I could have gotten us back MUCH faster!  He said surprised, “you knew where we were?”  My iron boogers work here too I guess!!

Anne giving me kisses

One very happy family

We were all so sluggish from the heat and the sea that we all laid down for a nap…5 HOURS LATER!!  Geesh!  This sun really can do a number on you.  We had a late lunch and cleaned up, baba showed me some of the math problem animations he made to demonstrate mathematical rules, we looked through pictures and talked about all my impressions and expectations.  We sat on the balcony and enjoyed the breeze while keeping each other company.  Baris’s family came over and brought us tons of fresh vegetables from his work!!  Tomatoes, Gala apples, peppers, corn!  He brought me some tiny peppers and dared me to take a bite.  “I searched all day especially for these, the smaller they get the hotter they are, you said you like spicy, I want to see what your limit is.” I promptly took the hole pepper in my mouth.  Oh the heat, it comes on slowly and keeps building.  Suha was shaking his head, baba was laughing at the sweat pouring from my forehead.  I really liked it, but yes, it was VERY HOT.  They got me some yogurt to fight the heat.  After they left, I happened to see Luanna online on facebook which lead to a skype conversation with mom and a very happy Alaskan Salmon!!  They got to meet my mom and Suha interpreted for them.  It was a beautiful ending to another amazing day!! I went to sleep smiling.

extremely clear water!!

very hot peppers!!

Lots more good food!!

Deniz!!

floating in the sea is easy

Deniz is the name of Suha's sister in law, it also means the sea.  I never know which they are talking about but I love them both!  Today, Baris(h) and Deniz took us to the sea.  We drove along the coast up in the mountains to a beautiful spot in a shallow cove at the sight of an ancient trading city with questionable morals.  Their women were known for imitating the hairstyle of an Egyptian goddess and their business thrived due to cheating and always getting a better deal than their counterparts.  They were plagued by malaria and wasps, which they blamed on the sailors, even though they lived next to a vast swampy area.

brothers having fun together

The drive there was beautiful, the mountains are indescribable.  Baris(h) kept pointing out things saying "jennyjennyjennyjennyjenny!"  They shoot straight up like the ones in Alaska but are rocky and rugged.  I got car sick on the way there, the road is very curvy and they drive like maniacs!!  I could sit in the front seat, I know it would help, but I cannot watch out the front.  It's too scary.  I don't want to know what hits us, if and when it ever happens.  I might be more apt to be hit while walking, cars follow no rules and only revert to the rules if there is no way then can fit, then they resort to who was right.  They constantly honk at each other, whether to say, excuse me, thank you, your turn, I need over there...etc.  I never know who is talking to who, it happens so much.

Baris and Ege

Digging his way out

an ancient bath house, the round disk stones are for sitting

Anyway, I arrived a bit queezy and after a short walk through beautiful trees and a crazy "parking lot" we arrived at the sea.  Baris(h) stuck our umbrella in the sand, Deniz covered Ege in sun screen and we got in and basically didn't get out for 5 hours. The sand was too hot to stand on long, the sea was so clear and salty, you could float for hours!! You could open your eyes without it stinging and you could see far underwater.  Baris(h) and I would go for swims till we couldn't touch, Ege spent an hour watering us all down with his water cannon.  He still isn't sure about me, which I am NOT used to.  But he did let me launch him into the water as Suha got tired of doing it.  "Yine! Yine!" (again! again!) After a second long swim out to some rocks where I cut the bottom of my foot, we got out and played in the sand.  Then Suha and I took a walk through the old ruins before we left to have lunch in Kemer (a very "high society" beach, shopping, 5 star hotel area)  I saw my first tourist trap camel and thankfully Suha did not keep his promise of making me ride it.  Ege took a crash and skinned his knees so our sight seeing tour was cut short.  He kept finding scratches and crying again.  Poor thing was so tired, he was a wreck anyway.  We took him home and put him in the bath.  Baris(h) took us home and stayed for dinner.  He reminds me of a big kid with a big heart, very animated and lovely person.  Life is always fun when he is around.  Tomorrow Deniz and him will celebrate their 6 year anniversary!!  They are a beautiful couple full of love and have the most adorable shy little boy.

I love old stones with ancient languages carved in them

Dinner was AMAZING of course.  She had a type of pilaf on the stove along with a yogurt, green lentil, homemade noodle soup and leftovers from a dinner we didn't eat last night of roasted kofte and vegetables.  The potatoes were like butter, the pilaf made me squeal with delight!!  It was made of barley!!  An entire pot of barley!!  It was like a dream come true.  My mother used to make moose stew and sprinkle some barley in it.  I used to chase the small white grain around the bowl like treasure and pick them all out and eat them first.  I told them, "a whole plate of barley to myself? I think I have died and gone to heaven!"  Always dinner is finished with melon and watermelon and grapes on the balcony in the breeze with tea.  A beautiful day for sure.

an old aquaduct

I asked Suha, can we have a quiet day tomorrow?  He said yes, we can sleep in and be lazy, then at 3 or 4, after the hot sun, we can walk to town and look for a calling card.  It is so hot here, the sun sucks the energy right out of you.  I love it though.  You are soaking wet all the time but warm and I almost want to chop my hair off...almost.

Anne and Baba always wave goodbye from the balcony

So it is tomorrow and we did have a lazy day, laundry, cleaning up, we eventually left the house and walked all over town.  We had tea by the sea again, my favorite place to sketch.  (I am keeping a sketching journal as well.)  We found an international calling card at the post office but after a couple hours of trying, we cannot figure out how to dial out so I missed my phone date with my parents.  At least I have internet for now :)  He took me to have my first cow intestines Kokorec(h) and the soup I can do without EVER tasting again.  It tasted how the old barn on the farm smells.  YUCK!  BUT!! The sandwhich which was made with the same kind of meat cooked a different way, tasted AMAZING!! The deep fried mussels were amazing too and the Iskender, like a doner kebab, bread, tomatoe paste sauce with a side of yogurt, to die for!!  We shopped for clothes and found some shorts for Suha.  I found that A: their sizing system is VERY different and B:  their sizes range for extra small to medium...not amazon alaskan style!

The view from our favorite tea garden

We came home to another beautiful meal of stuffed zucchini with yogurt.  When we walked in the door his parents asked if I had spoken with my parents.  I said no and the drama began.  Suha is in the dog house and is still hearing about how he couldn't do this one very important thing for me.  They say, we are parents, we know how important it is!  They are too sweet.  I am still being asked if my parents have gotten all the important information: I am safe, I am well, I am fed and loved.

sketching what I see...

His mother asks me to tell my mom, "Thank you for trusting our son and us to send your daughter so far to share her with us."  (I think they like me!)


Tomorrow is another EARLY morning, his parents are taking us to "deniz" the sea!!  I am spoiled!!

The mountains get me every time!!

Cow stomach soup, good for a hangover...so I'm told.

kokorec and fried mussles

VERY GOOD FOOD

Anne made stuffed zucchini!!!

...and zucchini cakes :)