Today, anne and baba took us back to the sea.  This time we went right here in Antalya.  The beach was made of pebbles and got deeper very close to shore.  The other beach is more Ege friendly but this one is closer and nicer for swimming and not getting sandy.

I love this spot!!

We woke up very early and drove straight there.  We laid out a Turkish rug next to a bunch of Umbrellas and jumped in.  IT WAS COLD (I mean comparatively).  I think it is the nature of the beach itself, the cold water comes up near the shore and the water warmed by the sun is a little farther out.  I swam out a ways and just floated for a while on my back until I felt maybe my face needed a break from the sun.  Then I swam back in.  This always makes Suha nervous, he says he can’t swim and that it is dangerous but I've seen him float like the best of us and swim short stints that proves differently. 

mountains, umbrellas, showers and changing room

Being in the water is so wonderful, I mean, I’m drenched most of the day anyway, always sticky, mostly pouring sweat at the smallest task, like putting on my shoes.  I drink tons of water but rarely have to go to the bathroom.  Technically water is everywhere!  Humidity is around 85% and the temp for the next three days will be above 40 degrees C, the hottest of the year.  But when you step into the sea, it’s the perfect temperature, takes all your weight off and feels like the best hug EVER!! I didn't think that the water could get much clearer from Kemer but it was!! Suha and I sifted through all the beautiful stones, picking out the prettiest ones to take home.  The pebbles made getting out precarious and I was sad to go but the sun was getting hot and it was time to go hide from it. 

baba wanted to take a picture

baba floating in the sea

We took the scenic route home again, they are still learning Antalya and it changes often.  Traffic as I said before is scary.  People park helter skelter, on sidewalks, in the middle of the road.  There are carts and horses, mopeds, bikes, pedestrians, cats dogs, food carts all within inches of each other.  Streets that seem impassable they dive down praying they make it.  Sometimes getting stuck and having to back out of it!!  I hold my breath and try not to gasp, someday I will get used to it and get my camera out and try to capture it, for now, I’m white knuckled.  When they don’t know where to go, they stop in the middle of the street, Suha would jump out and ask a passerby which way to go, of course everyone stops to help and we usually get two to three different stories about which way to go…typically in opposite directions.  I sat in the back blissfully ignorant to where we were even trying to go.  I kept seeing places we had seen on foot and starting putting things together.  Eventually we came out at home and I asked Suha, I wish you had told me we were going home, I could have gotten us back MUCH faster!  He said surprised, “you knew where we were?”  My iron boogers work here too I guess!!

Anne giving me kisses

One very happy family

We were all so sluggish from the heat and the sea that we all laid down for a nap…5 HOURS LATER!!  Geesh!  This sun really can do a number on you.  We had a late lunch and cleaned up, baba showed me some of the math problem animations he made to demonstrate mathematical rules, we looked through pictures and talked about all my impressions and expectations.  We sat on the balcony and enjoyed the breeze while keeping each other company.  Baris’s family came over and brought us tons of fresh vegetables from his work!!  Tomatoes, Gala apples, peppers, corn!  He brought me some tiny peppers and dared me to take a bite.  “I searched all day especially for these, the smaller they get the hotter they are, you said you like spicy, I want to see what your limit is.” I promptly took the hole pepper in my mouth.  Oh the heat, it comes on slowly and keeps building.  Suha was shaking his head, baba was laughing at the sweat pouring from my forehead.  I really liked it, but yes, it was VERY HOT.  They got me some yogurt to fight the heat.  After they left, I happened to see Luanna online on facebook which lead to a skype conversation with mom and a very happy Alaskan Salmon!!  They got to meet my mom and Suha interpreted for them.  It was a beautiful ending to another amazing day!! I went to sleep smiling.

extremely clear water!!

very hot peppers!!

Lots more good food!!

Deniz!!

floating in the sea is easy

Deniz is the name of Suha's sister in law, it also means the sea.  I never know which they are talking about but I love them both!  Today, Baris(h) and Deniz took us to the sea.  We drove along the coast up in the mountains to a beautiful spot in a shallow cove at the sight of an ancient trading city with questionable morals.  Their women were known for imitating the hairstyle of an Egyptian goddess and their business thrived due to cheating and always getting a better deal than their counterparts.  They were plagued by malaria and wasps, which they blamed on the sailors, even though they lived next to a vast swampy area.

brothers having fun together

The drive there was beautiful, the mountains are indescribable.  Baris(h) kept pointing out things saying "jennyjennyjennyjennyjenny!"  They shoot straight up like the ones in Alaska but are rocky and rugged.  I got car sick on the way there, the road is very curvy and they drive like maniacs!!  I could sit in the front seat, I know it would help, but I cannot watch out the front.  It's too scary.  I don't want to know what hits us, if and when it ever happens.  I might be more apt to be hit while walking, cars follow no rules and only revert to the rules if there is no way then can fit, then they resort to who was right.  They constantly honk at each other, whether to say, excuse me, thank you, your turn, I need over there...etc.  I never know who is talking to who, it happens so much.

Baris and Ege

Digging his way out

an ancient bath house, the round disk stones are for sitting

Anyway, I arrived a bit queezy and after a short walk through beautiful trees and a crazy "parking lot" we arrived at the sea.  Baris(h) stuck our umbrella in the sand, Deniz covered Ege in sun screen and we got in and basically didn't get out for 5 hours. The sand was too hot to stand on long, the sea was so clear and salty, you could float for hours!! You could open your eyes without it stinging and you could see far underwater.  Baris(h) and I would go for swims till we couldn't touch, Ege spent an hour watering us all down with his water cannon.  He still isn't sure about me, which I am NOT used to.  But he did let me launch him into the water as Suha got tired of doing it.  "Yine! Yine!" (again! again!) After a second long swim out to some rocks where I cut the bottom of my foot, we got out and played in the sand.  Then Suha and I took a walk through the old ruins before we left to have lunch in Kemer (a very "high society" beach, shopping, 5 star hotel area)  I saw my first tourist trap camel and thankfully Suha did not keep his promise of making me ride it.  Ege took a crash and skinned his knees so our sight seeing tour was cut short.  He kept finding scratches and crying again.  Poor thing was so tired, he was a wreck anyway.  We took him home and put him in the bath.  Baris(h) took us home and stayed for dinner.  He reminds me of a big kid with a big heart, very animated and lovely person.  Life is always fun when he is around.  Tomorrow Deniz and him will celebrate their 6 year anniversary!!  They are a beautiful couple full of love and have the most adorable shy little boy.

I love old stones with ancient languages carved in them

Dinner was AMAZING of course.  She had a type of pilaf on the stove along with a yogurt, green lentil, homemade noodle soup and leftovers from a dinner we didn't eat last night of roasted kofte and vegetables.  The potatoes were like butter, the pilaf made me squeal with delight!!  It was made of barley!!  An entire pot of barley!!  It was like a dream come true.  My mother used to make moose stew and sprinkle some barley in it.  I used to chase the small white grain around the bowl like treasure and pick them all out and eat them first.  I told them, "a whole plate of barley to myself? I think I have died and gone to heaven!"  Always dinner is finished with melon and watermelon and grapes on the balcony in the breeze with tea.  A beautiful day for sure.

an old aquaduct

I asked Suha, can we have a quiet day tomorrow?  He said yes, we can sleep in and be lazy, then at 3 or 4, after the hot sun, we can walk to town and look for a calling card.  It is so hot here, the sun sucks the energy right out of you.  I love it though.  You are soaking wet all the time but warm and I almost want to chop my hair off...almost.

Anne and Baba always wave goodbye from the balcony

So it is tomorrow and we did have a lazy day, laundry, cleaning up, we eventually left the house and walked all over town.  We had tea by the sea again, my favorite place to sketch.  (I am keeping a sketching journal as well.)  We found an international calling card at the post office but after a couple hours of trying, we cannot figure out how to dial out so I missed my phone date with my parents.  At least I have internet for now :)  He took me to have my first cow intestines Kokorec(h) and the soup I can do without EVER tasting again.  It tasted how the old barn on the farm smells.  YUCK!  BUT!! The sandwhich which was made with the same kind of meat cooked a different way, tasted AMAZING!! The deep fried mussels were amazing too and the Iskender, like a doner kebab, bread, tomatoe paste sauce with a side of yogurt, to die for!!  We shopped for clothes and found some shorts for Suha.  I found that A: their sizing system is VERY different and B:  their sizes range for extra small to medium...not amazon alaskan style!

The view from our favorite tea garden

We came home to another beautiful meal of stuffed zucchini with yogurt.  When we walked in the door his parents asked if I had spoken with my parents.  I said no and the drama began.  Suha is in the dog house and is still hearing about how he couldn't do this one very important thing for me.  They say, we are parents, we know how important it is!  They are too sweet.  I am still being asked if my parents have gotten all the important information: I am safe, I am well, I am fed and loved.

sketching what I see...

His mother asks me to tell my mom, "Thank you for trusting our son and us to send your daughter so far to share her with us."  (I think they like me!)


Tomorrow is another EARLY morning, his parents are taking us to "deniz" the sea!!  I am spoiled!!

The mountains get me every time!!

Cow stomach soup, good for a hangover...so I'm told.

kokorec and fried mussles

VERY GOOD FOOD

Anne made stuffed zucchini!!!

...and zucchini cakes :)

Exploring Antalya

This morning, Ozzy and I woke up early, had a big Turkish breakfast, walked down to the light rail and took it down town.  We walked for 5 hours, 6miles, 14,800 steps….ALL OVER TOWN.

mosaics everywhere!

There was so much to see, smell, taste…at the end of the day I had over 900 photos!!  I couldn’t figure out why but then learned that a setting on my camera was on continuous shoot so now if you flip through them real fast they make a flip book movie!!  I wish I knew how to do that digitally, but alas I am not that tech savvy. 

just part of a ruin somewhere in the city

Us overlooking the old city

Some of the coolest sights were in the old city in the day light, some of the buildings are falling down so you can see how they were constructed.  There are many stores that sell spices in bins and are constantly finding new ways to pile it creatively, or mix by making pictures and shapes with the different colors and textures.  This morning, Ozzy and I woke up early, had a big Turkish breakfast, walked down to the light rail and took it down town.  We walked for 5 hours, 6miles, 14,800 steps….ALL OVER TOWN.

There was so much to see, smell, taste…at the end of the day I had over 900 photos!!  I couldn’t figure out why but then learned that a setting on my camera was on continuous shoot so now if you flip through them real fast they make a flip book movie!!  I wish I knew how to do that digitally, but alas I am not that tech savvy. 

My favorite spice guy

soaps

the old city, the restored section

Some of the coolest sights were in the old city in the day light, some of the buildings are falling down so you can see how they were constructed.  There are many stores that sell spices in bins and are constantly finding new ways to pile it creatively, or mix by making pictures and shapes with the different colors and textures.

outside the turkish bath...notice the glass skylights

 One shop keeper offered me tea made of pomegranate flowers dried and ground down very fine…It was Cok Guzel!! He handed Suha a mixture of 45 spices that will cure all that ills you.  One sniff almost knocked me out.  It will clear any nasal issue, that is for darn sure!!  We had tea by the sea while I sketched the harbor.  Suha showed me where he had the first digital art exhibit in Turkey.  I wish he still had the originals but they are gone now.  We walked through an outdoor military museum and a mall, a bazar, where all the vendors thought I was German (ha!), and through an old bath turned gift shop.  In the center it had all authentic hena dresses for brides, soaps made of rose, and other spices, lamps, rugs, “clap clap” slippers (so people can hear you coming), and many other amazing Turkish “stuff.”  It was highly priced, very touristic, and very exciting for me.  There is a bazar in an old hotel, the shops are in the “horse stalls”, and there are offices upstairs in the “rooms.”  It is a square building with a courtyard in the middle, very “zorro” like.  I hope to get a picture someday soon. 

Henna dresses

There are lots of huge spaces with very little people in the middle of the day so the views are amazing. 

Such a fun spot!!

Before we went home, Suha (Ozzy, Ozgur to everyone here) took me to his favorite sis kofte piyaz restaurant.  Unfortunately the original owner, Mustafa, has passed away but his son was there and remembered Ozzy from the old days and gave him the special treatment.  I had some of the best food yet, Suha promised to bring me back a couple of times before we leave here. 

Old Turkish bath ceiling

I am picking up a few more Turkish words, though mostly everything I know pertains to food, therefore his mother thinks I am always hungry!!  When we arrived home she had an amazing dinner prepared again! But there was a miss communication with his brother so we jumped in the car and drove across the city for dessert.  It only takes about 20 minutes to get there.  While there I uploaded pictures to Facebook and ate a plate of 4 or 5 different pastries, including a coffee, chocolate, pie cake thing…very yummy.  And of course, drank more tea…always tea, with food without food one can always find a cup of cay waiting for you. 

Kahve and turkish delight

We were on our way home and I noticed lots of discussion and way more turns than on our way to Baris’s house.  I asked if we were lost and suha says no not really.  Soon we are stopping and asking every person sitting on the side of the road where we are going.  I ask again, are you sure we aren’t lost?  Suha said, no it’s not lost, it’s the scenic route.  I mentioned its dark and I can’t see anything, so I asked, if we were on an adventure…we all had a good laugh.

military leaders - first one is a woman

  It took an hour longer to get home and I was exhausted from the long day walking around in 105 degrees.  When we finally parked, everyone got excited and started pointing at a lit up window.  Ozan’s family was home!!  We went over and had tea, grapes and melon from their village garden.  I practiced my Turkish with them and their son practiced his English with me.  I was saying I didn’t know much Turkish but Ozan’s wife said my pronunciations were especially good.  At least, what I do know, I say correctly!  Ozan brought us bamboo bathrobes from Pamukkali and invited us to come visit them soon!  We were not going to, even though I have been asking to go visit Ozan since we bought our tickets to Turkey.  Suha now says we can go!!

best kofte EVER

We crawled into bed around 2am and had to get up and leave for Baris’s by 8am!!  Another adventure awaits tomorrow at the sea!!

Piyaze - White bean salad

A day at home

First Day in Antalya:

We ate, chatted, drank kahve (coffee), snacked, drank cay (tea), ate, took a nap, ate, cay, snacked and ate.  Anne never left the kitchen.  She kept saying it was too hot to go out , we will later (at 8pm) would you like some of this? Try this. It was all SO amazing!!  Most of the vegetables were from a Konya farm, the cheeses from Corum, the jellies, cranberry and apricot, she had made herself, the breads...Oh the bread!! Fresh from the local wood fired oven across the street.  She made this bean dish that was to die for, and there was salad that was so light and vegetables I have never seen before that tasted heavenly.  We ate like royalty and she wouldn't let me help.  She said, "today your are our guest, tomorrow, tsk."  I asked suha what the click meant, he said, that my guest pass expires, I asked if that means I become family, he said yes.

They say if you share a cup of kahve you are friends for the next 40 years.  I've had enough coffee to make them my friends for life!


That evening at dusk, we drove the short distance to a light rail where we parked, risked our life crossing the street and had an education on what we lovingly now call MAX.  After riding into town and watching a bit more traffic, I was SO glad they had decided to try and figure out transit.  I cannot watch while anyone is driving.  I make too many gasping noises and they laugh.  We went through an antique bazar, where a bunch of knock off adidas, disney and coach products were on display.  It lead us out to a Madeneh (square) where there was a huge wall, watch tower and fun water feature like the one in the park by lloyd center.  Everything is lit by neon LED's, even the horse and carriages are glowing.  Children running around playing in the water, street cats everywhere!  We made our way across another busy street to the watch tower and slowly, slowly walked down a steep hill, covered in marble!!, slippery, shiny, beautiful marble!!  Here was the real old town, the parts that sell you all the turkish spices and treasures!  The buildings that told stories 500 years old.


The shop keepers kept speaking German to me! Ha!


At the bottom of the hill we found a harbor full of pirate ships.  (very touristy in the dady but almost surreal at night)  The wall kept the town safe from pirates historically so now it's just a game to make a buck.  There was a kid selling pilaf (rice) stuffed mussels in the shell.  A man in a cart that sold icecream, though he took a while getting it to you with is funny icecream act.  We will see if I can upload a video...


We walked up these steep, huge stone steps that were uneven and scary in the dark to the top of the hill and made our way back to the square for my first kofte!!  It was amazing, it is nothing like we have anywhere in Portland or San Francisco.  It was midnight and we were eating with throngs of young families and children.  It truely was the cooler side of the day.  We went home and everyone crashed while I cursed my nap.  No sleep that night.  Against my better judgement, I hit a wall at 6 and couldn't keep my eyes open.  Tomorrow, I will keep my eyes open ALL DAY.


I posted more pics on Facebook :)